Onsen are known to be effective for recovering from illness or injury, Japan has a unique culture of using them specifically for refreshment.
This practice is called “Toji.” However, many people from overseas are still unfamiliar with this culture. Therefore, we would like to introduce the Japanese culture of Toji here.
Characters
- Mike: A 12-year-old American boy interested in Japan.
- John: Mike’s father. A businessman who has experience visiting Japan.
- Kelly: Mike’s mother. She is a talented cook and is interested in Japanese cuisine.
- Nobu: A Japanese international student.
Prologue
To people from overseas, the Japanese love for bathing is well-known. It may seem unusual, especially to those from shower-based cultures.
Recently, however, more international visitors are heading to Japanese onsen resorts, and interest is growing. Rather than just describing how comfortable these resorts are, let’s take a step further into a deeper part of Japanese onsen culture: “Toji.”
Mike Learns About Japan’s Toji Culture
Mike: “When I look up Japanese onsen online, I find many things that are very interesting from our perspective.”
John: “That’s true. It seems they are popular with foreigners and are even included in many Japan tours.”
Mike: “I see. But according to this article, onsen isn’t just for bathing; they are also effective for refreshing the body.”
John: “Really? Just by soaking in hot water?”
Mike: “It seems the water isn’t just plain water. There are various minerals dissolved in it.”
John: “I hadn’t noticed that. But come to think of it, some springs weren’t transparent. It makes sense that it’s more than just hot water.”
Mike: “Maybe those dissolved substances are what’s good for the body.”
John: “You might be right.”
John Discovers the History of Toji
John: “I looked into Toji culture, and it has a very long history. There are records dating back 1,300 years. However, those are just the written accounts; local people might have been using them for refreshment even further back in time.”
Mike: “Why ‘even further back’?”
John: “Because for a record to exist, someone had to write it down. That person needed to be literate. However, local people at that time weren’t necessarily able to write.”
Mike: “So you’re saying it might have been used by locals who couldn’t write… making the hypothesis of an even older history possible.”
John: “Exactly.”
Mike: “But Japan had many wars in the past, like the Sengoku period. Did the warriors use onsen too?”
John: “It seems so. For example, there’s a legend that samurai who escaped from the war between the two great powers, the Genji and Heike, used hot springs to heal.”
Mike: “I see. What a fascinating history.”
Nobu Introduces Toji Sites
Nobu: “Hello there.”
Mike: “Hi! We were just talking about Japanese onsen. I didn’t realize they could be so refreshing.”
Nobu: “That’s right. In Japan, they’ve been used for that purpose since ancient times.”
John: “I understand that a bath warms you up, but what makes an onsen stay different?”
Nobu: “It varies by person, but some stay at onsen resorts for a long time to recharge. This is called ‘Toji’—staying at a spring for an extended period.”
John: “How long is ‘long’?”
Nobu: “For example, three weeks. It’s different from a typical one-night sightseeing trip.”
John: “But staying that long must be expensive.”
Nobu: “Actually, not necessarily. In many cases, you cook your own meals (jisu) at the inn, so it’s much cheaper.”
John: “That’s quite different from sightseeing. It feels completely different from the leisure experience of a typical onsen ryokan.”
Nobu: “By the way, there are Toji sites surprisingly close to the Tokyo metropolitan area.”
Mike: “I see, thanks to the Shinkansen.”
Nobu: “Yes, the Shinkansen is useful. However, since it only stops at major stations, you’ll need to transfer to a local line or take a bus from there.”
John: “The travel time is short, but the transfers sound a bit inconvenient.”
Nobu: “True. But it’s a culture I really want people from overseas to experience.”
Kelly Confirms What to Bring
Kelly: “What kind of things would we need for a place like that? If we have to cook for ourselves, I’d be unsure of what to prepare.”
Nobu: “It depends on the inn, but many items can be rented. However, the equipment isn’t always extensive, so you can only prepare simple meals.”
Kelly: “That’s understandable. But a simple, rustic place like that sounds like a nice way to experience old Japan.”
Nobu: “You’ll also need your bathing supplies and a change of clothes.”
John: “It’s probably best to check with the inn about what we need, right?”
Nobu: “That’s the safest way.”
Exploring Specific Toji Locations
John: “Are there any Toji sites close to Tokyo?”
Nobu: “Surprisingly many! They are found in Gunma, Tochigi, and Kanagawa prefectures.”
Tochigi Prefecture: Shiobara Motoyu Onsen
Nobu: “Tochigi is located north of the Kanto region. You can go part of the way by Shinkansen and then take a bus. But be careful with the Tohoku Shinkansen.”
John: “Why is that?”
Nobu: “Some Shinkansen stop at every station, while others only stop at major ones. You must check the stops, or you might skip your station entirely.”
John: “What happens then?”
Nobu: “For example, if you miss your stop, you might end up in Fukushima or Miyagi prefecture. Once you go that far, it’s not easy to come back.”
John: “I see. We definitely need to be careful.”
Gunma Prefecture: Manza Onsen
Nobu: “In Gunma, there is a place called Manza Onsen, which is very famous for Toji. It’s also north of Tokyo, next to Tochigi.”
John: “Sounds like we can get there from Tokyo easily.”
Nobu: “Yes. And it’s in a unique location—at a high altitude of 1,800 meters. Since Mt. Fuji is about 3,700 meters, it’s roughly half that height.”
John: “That sounds very interesting.”
Kanagawa Prefecture: Yugawara Onsen
Nobu: “Next is Yugawara Onsen in Kanagawa. It’s very close to Tokyo—less than two hours away.”
John: “So if we’re worried about transportation, this is the most convenient?”
Nobu: “In terms of access, yes. A short stay is fine, but Toji sites are best enjoyed slowly. If you’re in a hurry, a regular sightseeing ryokan might be better. Since Toji involves self-catering, you should weigh the pros and cons before choosing.”
John: “I see.”
Final Tips Before You Go
Nobu: “Oh, there’s one more thing to remember before visiting a Toji site.”
John: “What’s that?”
Nobu: “Many Japanese public baths refuse entry to people with tattoos. You should check the policy in advance. Also, remember to wash your body before entering the bath and never put your towel in the water.”
John: “Anything else?”
Nobu: “Some springs have mixed bathing (konyoku) or outdoor baths (rotenburo). Konyoku means men and women share the bath, and rotenburo is outdoors.”
John: “Men and women together? Outdoors? That might be surprising for some people.”
Nobu: “Yes, so it’s best to confirm these details early so you aren’t surprised at the last minute.”
END
Toji: A Culture of “Slow Living”
In the past, many people visited Toji sites to refresh themselves. In today’s busy world, this tradition seems to be fading.
However, I personally feel that time moves very slowly at a Toji site. While some places have modern leisure facilities, the Toji site I visited was truly a place with nothing but the hot springs.
I remember bathing many times a day—from the morning until late at night. Most visitors were elderly, enjoying the hot water and the “slow time.” It is a culture of “slow living” that modern Japanese people are also beginning to forget.
Conclusion
We have introduced the culture of Toji. While Japanese hot springs are world-famous, many may not know about Toji.
You may have discovered a “hidden side of Japan.” While many know that hot spring resorts are relaxing, the time at a Toji site passes even more slowly.
If you have enough time during your stay in Japan, I recommend choosing a Toji site to enjoy this “slow time.” You might find a different side of Japan in the quiet atmosphere of great nature.
